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HomeMy WebLinkAboutEducational MaterialsEDUCATIONAL MATERIALS TREE ORDINANCE Tree Ordinances I https://ourgreenmiami.wordpress.com/?page_id=442&preview=true Tree Ordinances Existing Trees In order to preserve and protect our tree canopy, the City of Miami regulates removal, relocation and pruning of all trees within City limits. These regulations may be found in Chapter 17 of the Code of Ordinances of the City of Miami. Failure to comply with the City's tree regulations may result in fines in excess of $500. ® Removal or relocation of trees requires a permit from the City of Miami. Removal of trees also requires either planting of new trees or payment into the City's Tree Trust Fund. More information can be found at https:/J ourgreenmiami.wordpress.com/tree-removal- 1 cation/. n Pruning of trees does not require a permit if it is performed in accordance with Standards for Tree Care Operations, as specified by Chapter 17 of the City Code. Improper pruning practices, such as removal of more than 25% of a tree's foliage, hat -racking, topping, lion -tailing or otherwise failing to comply with these standards, may result in a fine for the property owner. More information can be found at https://ourgreenmiami.wordpress.com/tree-pruning/. Landscaping for New Construction Additionally, the Zoning Code of the City of Miami has minimum landscape requirements for new construction, which can found in Article 9 of the Zoning Code of the City of Miami. Theme: Twenty Ten Blog at WordPress.com. 1 of 1 3/14/2011 8:45 AM Tree Removal and Relocation I http://ourgreenmiami.wordpress.corn/?page_id=508&preview=true Tree Removal and Relocation Removal or relocation of any tree within the City requires permits, as specified by Chapter 17 of th.e City of Miami Code of Ordinances. No building permit for any work that has the potential to affect trees, including new construction, additions, carports, pools, decks, fences, driveways, parking lots, tennis courts, demolition, or similar work, shall be issued by the building department unless the zoning department has determined that no tree removal permit is require or that a valid tree removal permit has been issued. Permits ■ Private Property — Removal or relocation of trees from private property requires a permit from the gart e o de of 4mment. ■ Right of Way — Removal or relocation of trees from the right of way and other public property requires a permit from the Department of Public Works. Replacement Trees Removal of trees shall require that property owners perform at least one of the following: i. Plant new trees on the impacted property, 2. Plant new trees on an approved alternative location, or 3. Payment into the City's Tree Trust Fund. The quantity of trees required or the amount of payment requiredwill be determined by the size and quantity of the trees removed, as specified in Chapter 17 of the City Code. Failure to Obtain a Permit In addition to the replacement requirements above, any person, or agent thereof, who removes a tree without a tree removal permit, may be fined in accordance with the Code of the City of Miami. Resources ■ City of Miami Code of Ordinances Chapter i2Article I — Tree Protection in General ■ C.ity ofMiam epaaitnaent o C&de_Eof arc_ n ai ■ City of Miami Department of Public Works ■ American National Standards Institute A3oo — Standards for Tree Care Operations ■ Certified Arborist Directory, 1 of 3/14/2011 8:45 AM Tree Removal and Relocation I http://ourgreenmiami.wordpress.com/?page_id=508&preview=true ® American Society of Landscape Architects — Florida Chapter ■ Miami Dade Countyl andscape Manual ■ Miami Dade Count Landscape Manual — Priming Sectio.n5 m FPL — Plant the Right Tree in the Right Place The resources above are offered for educational purposes. In the event of discrepancies between the Code of the City of Miami and any other materials cited above, the City Code shall have precedence. Theme: Twenty Ten Blog atWordPress.com. 2 of 3/14/2011 8:45 AM Tree Pruning http://ourgreenmiami.wordpress.com/?page_id=445&preview=true Tree Pruning Proper tree pruning can improve a tree's health, safety, and appearance. However, if improperly pruned, a tree may become diseased, may die, and may present a greater safety hazard. Therefore, in order to protect our City's tree canopy, the City of Miami requires that tree pruning must comply with methods specified by the American National Standards Institute's (ANSI) ANSI Moo — Standards for Tree Care Operations, as indicated by Chapter 17 of the Code of the City of Miami. PROPERPRMh11NP,. Examples of Improper Pruning 'PROPER,,PRUNING n The following are common examples of improper pruning which would likely violate the City's tree protection ordinance and result in fines. ■ Removal of more than 25% of a tree's canopy in any one year period. ® Topping or hat -racking — the cutting back of the trunk and/or main branches of a tree, removing an excess of the tree canopy or crown. ® Lion tailing — the excessive removal of living foliage from the interior of the main branches of a tree. Resources a City of Miami Code of Ordinances Chapter 17, Article I — Tree Protection in General o City of Miami Department of Code Enforcement a City of Miami Department of Public Works e ANSI ASoo — Standards for Tree Care Operations ® Certified Arborist Directory ■ American Society of Landscape Architects — Florida Chapter ® M aami a PS,Qua � kandas pa_ngM..aaw 11 m Miami Dade County Landscaping Manual — Pruning Sections ® USDA Forest Service — How to Prune Trees ® FPL — Plant the Right Tree in the Right Place • Wi$consix Delpartrue.rut of Natju'al Re o irces — Proper Tree Pnxniug Bsockure The resources above are offered for educational purposes. In the event of discrepancies between the Code of the City of Miami and any other materials cited above, the City Code shall have precedence. Theme: Twenty Ten Blog at WordPress.com. 1 of 1 3/14/2011 8:45 AM THE LANLSCAFE MANUAL 1",/,„ -P‘r1A.5 2-coi Pr (AK: v‘S 114.3;0.> DRAFT ROOT PRUNING TREE SHALL BE LIGHTLY PRUNED (SELECTIVELY THINNED) BY HAND. ANOTHER. OPTION 15 TO AERIAL SPRAY TREES DURING ROOT PRUNING PERIOD. TRENCH TO BE FILLED WITH FIBROUS MATERIAL SUCH AS LEAVES OR MULCH. The method used for transplanting on -site trees is critical -For tree survival. The following sketches indicate methods of root pruning and transplanting. Tropical and sub -tropical trees should be moved on about June 1st during the rainy season instead of during cooler weather when they can be damaged or killed. Deciduous trees which lose leaves during certain period should be transplanted when theirfoliage is dropped. Trees should be pruned .a minimum of 8 weeks before transplanting. Watering should occur once per week during root pruning. Transplanted trees should be watered every day for the first month then 2 to 3 days a week and gradually reduced up to one year. Water should be applied at a rate of 3 gallons per inch of trunk per watering. TORN ROOTS SHALL BE TRIMMED TO SOLID WOOD 75 PRUNING The correct pruning of shade trees is critical both for safety as well as for aesthetic reasons. The following criteria are adopted from the ANSI A-300 and are recommended as specifications to be included in landscape plans. CLASS I FINE PRUNING BY PROPER BRANCH THINNING YOU CAN REDUCE THE HEIGHT AND SPREAD OF A TREE AND STILL MAINTAIN ITS NATURAL SHAPE °DIAG►RAM A° Fine pruning is recommended for premium quality work with an emphasis on aesthetic considerations in addition to structural i nteg rity. ADAPTED FROM STANDARDS OF THE NATIONAL ARBORISTS ASSOCIATION Fine pruning shall consist of the removal of dead, dying, diseased, decaying, interfering, obstructing, and weak branches, as well as selective thinning to lessen wind resistance. The removal of such described branches is to include those on the main trunks, as well as those inside the leaf area. An occasional undesirable branch up to one- half inch in diameter, as described above, may retain within the main leaf area to its full length when it is not practical to remove it. COLLAR ALL CUTS SHOULD BE MADE A5 CLOSE AS POSSIBLE TO THE TRUNK OR PARENT LIMB WITHOUT CUTTING INTO THE BRANCH COLLAR OR LEAVING A PROTRUDING STUB BARK ATTHE EDGE. °DIAGRAM B° 82 All of the following of General specifications, listed below, apply c. to Class I, Fine Fruning: a All cuts shall be made as close as possible to the trunk or parent limb, without cutting into the branch collar or leaving a protruding stub (See diagram 0). Bark at the edge of all pruning cuts should remain firmly attached. b. All branches too large to support with one hand shall be precut (See diagram C) to avoid splitting ortearing of the bark. Where necessary ropes or other equipment should be used to lower large branches or stubs to the ground. ALL BRANCHES TOO LARGE TO SUPPORT WITH ONE HAND SHOULD BE PRECUT TO AVOID SPLITTING OR TEARING OF THE BARK. WHERE NECESSARY, ROPES OR OTHER EQUIPMENT SHOULD BE USED TO LOWER BRANCHES OR STUBS TO THE GROUND. °DIAGRAM C° d. e. f. 9. 83 Treatment of cuts and wounds with wound dressing or paints has not been shown to be effective in preventing or reducing decay and is not generally recommend forthat reason. 01d injuries are to be inspected. Those not closing properly and where the callus` growth is not already completely established should be bark traced if the bark appears loose or damaged. Such tracing shall not penetratethexylem (sapwood), and margins shall be kept rounded. Bark tracing Shall only be undertaken by qualified arborist. Equipment that will damage the bark and cambium layer should not be used on or in the tree. For example the use of climbing spurs (hooks, irons) is not an acceptable work practice for pruning operations on live trees. Sharp tools shall be used so that clean cuts will be made at all times. All cut limbs shall be relrloved from the crown upon Completion of the pruning Trees susceptible to serious infectious diseases should not be pruned at the time of year during which the pathogens causing the disease or the insect vectors are are most active. Similarly, if pruning wounds may attract harmful insects, pruning should be timed so as to avoid insect infestation. These additional specifications shall also apply to Class 1, Fine Pruning. Definition provided in Glossary h. Remove the weaker or less desirable of crossed or rubbing branches. Such removal, if possible, should not leave large open spaces in the general outline of the tree. i. Where practical, all visible girdling* roots shall be treated as follows: j• 1. Cut root at either end, or 2. Server root in center with a chisel and allow growing tree to push root away. 3. Remove section of root. The presence of any disease condition, fungus fruit bodies, decayed trunk or branches, spilt crotches or branches, cracks or other structural weakness shall be reported in writing to a supervisor and/or the owner, an corrective measures recommended. CLASS II - STANDARD PRUNING Standard pruning is recommended where aesthetic considerations are secondary to structural integrity and tree health concerns. Standard pruning shall consist of the removal of dead, dying, diseased, decaying, interfering, obstructing, and weak branches, as well as selective thinning to lessen wind resistance. The removal of such described branches is to include those on the main trunks, as well as those inside the leaf area. An occasional undesirable branch up to one inch in diameter may remain within the main leaf area where It is not practical to remove it. The following General Specifications, listed below apply to Class II, Standard Pruning. a. b. All cuts shall be made as close as possible to the trunk or parent limb, without cutting into the branch collar or leaving a protruding stub (See diagram B). Bark at the edge of all pruning cuts should remain firmly attached. All branches too large to support with one hand shall be precut (See diagram C) to avoid splitting or tearing of the bark. Where necessary, ropes or other equipment should be used to lower large branches or stubs to the ground. Treatment of cuts and wounds with wound dressing or paints has not been shown to be effective in preventing or reducing decay, and is not generally recommended for that reason. Wound dressing over infection wood may stimulate the decay process. Old injuries are to be inspected. Those not closing properly and where the callus* growth is not already completely established should be bark traced if the bark appears loose or damaged. Such tracing shall not penetrated the xylem (sapwood), and margins shall be kept rounded. e. Equipment that will damage the bark and cambium layer should not be used on or in the tree. For example the use of climbing spurs (hooks, irons) is not an acceptable work practice for pruning operations on live trees. Sharp tools shall be used do that clean cuts will be made at all times. 84 f. All cut limbs shall be removed from the crown upon completion ofthe pruning. g. Trees susceptible to serious infectious diseases should not be pruned at the time of year during which the pathogens causing the diseases or the insect vectors are most active. Similarly, if pruning wounds may attract harmful insects, pruning should be timed so as to avoid insect infestation. These additional specifications shall apply to Class II, Standard Pruning: h. All visible girdling roots are to be reported to a supervisor and/or the owner. The presence of any disease condition, fungus fruit bodies, decayed trunk or branches, split crotches or branches, crack or other structural weakness should be reported in writing to a supervisor and / or the owner, and corrective measures recommended. Class III - Hazard Pruning Hazard pruning is recommended where safety considerations are paramount. Hazard pruning shall consist of the removal of dead, diseased, decayed, and obviously weak branches, two inches in diameter or greater. The following General Specifications, listed below, apply to Class III, Hazard Pruning: b. c. d. 85 All cuts shall be made as close as possible to the trunk or parent limb with out cutting into the branch collar or leaving A protruding stub (See diagram B). Back at the edge of all pruning cuts should remain firmly attached. All branches too large to support with one hand shall be precut (See diagram C) to avoid splitting or tearing of the bark. Where necessary, ropes or other equipment should be used to lower large branches or stubs to the ground. Treatment of cuts and wounds with wound dressing or paints has not been shown to be effective in preventing or reducing decay, and is not generally recommended for that reason. Wound dressing over infection wood may stimulate the decay process. 01d injuries are to be inspected. Those not closing properly and where the callus* growth is not already completely established should be bark traced if the bark appears loose or damaged. Such tracing shall not penetrated the xylem (Sapwood),and margins shall be kept rounded. Equipment that will damage the bark and cambium layer should not be used on or in the tree. For example the use of climbing spurs (hooks, irons) is not an acceptable work practice for pruning operations on live trees. Sharp tools shall be used: do that clean cuts will be made at all times. f. All cut limbs shall be removed from the crown upon completion ofthe pruning. g. Tress susceptible to serious infectious diseases should not be pruned at the time of year during which the pathogens causing the diseases or the insect vectors are most active. Similarly, if pruning wounds may attract harmful insects, pruning should be timed so as to avoid insect infestation. These additional specifications shall apply to Class III, Hazard Pruning: h. All visible girdling roots are to be reported to a supervisor and/orthe owner. The presence of any disease condition, fungus fruit bodies, decayed trunk or branches, split crotches or branches, crack or other structural weakness should be reported in writing to a supervisor and/or the owner, and corrective measures recommended. CLASS IV - CROWN REDUCTION PRUNING Crown reduction pruning shall consist of the reduction of tops, sides or individual limbs. It involves the removal of a parent limb or dominant leader at the point of attachment of a lateral branch, as illustrated in diagram D. This practice is to be undertaken onlyforthe following reasons: a. In situations where branches interfere with utility lines. b. When there has been significant crown dieback. c. When it is necessary to achieve specific topiary training or dwarfing. d. In case where, due to storm damage or prior incorrect pruning, it is appropriate to prune for safety and aesthetic reasons. 86 All of the specifications of General Specifications, listed below applyto Class IV, Crown Reduction F'runing: a. All branches too large to support with one hand shall be precut (see diagram C) to avoid splitting or rearing of the bark. Where necessary ropes or other equipment should be used to lower large branches or stubs to the ground. b. Treatment of cuts and wounds with wound dressing or paints has bot been shown to be effective in preventing or reducing decay, and is not general recommended for that reason. Wound dressing over infected wood may stimulate the decay process. If wounds are painted for cosmetic or other reasons, then materials non -toxic to the cambium layer of meristematic tissue must be used. Care must be taken to apply a thin coating ofthe material only to the exposed wood. c. Old injuries are to be inspected. Those not closing properly and where the callus growth is not already completely established should be bark traced if the bark appears loose or damaged. Such tracing shall not penetrate the xylem (sapwood) and margins shall be kept rounded. d. Equipment that will damage the bark and cambium layer should not be used on or in the tree. For example the use of climbing spurs (hooks, irons) is not an acceptable work practice for pruning operations on live trees. Sharp tools shall be used do that clean cuts will be made at all times. e. All cut limbs shall be removed from the crown upon Completion ofthe pruning. f. Trees susceptible to serious infectious diseases should not be pruned at the time of year during which the pathogens causing the diseases or the insect vectors are most active. Similarly, if pruning wounds may attract harmful insects, pruning should be timed so as to avoid insect infestation. These additional specifications shall also apply to Class IV, Crown Reduction Pruning: g. When removing a parent leader or limb to a lateral branch, the final cut should be made as close as possible with the branch bark ridge and the lateral limb. The cut should be made as close as possible without cutting into it. Care should be taken to avoid damaging the lateral limb when the final cut is made. h. Remove the weaker or less desirable of crossed or rubbing branches. Such removal should not leave large open spaces in the general outline of the tree. I.. General in crown reduction pruning, not more than one-third of the total area should be removed in a single operations. Every effort should be made to cut back to a lateral, at least one-third to one-half the diameter of the parent limb or leader that is being removed. Cuts not made to a suitable lateral, sometimes called topping cuts, shall not be permitted. 87 j• Before a branch is cut back, the ratio of live wood in the branch to leaf surface in the remaining branch should be considered carefully. The leaves must supply sufficient carbohydrates (food) to maintain the wood in the remaining branch as well as send excess carbohydrates to the trunk and roots for storage and later use. Generally, not more than one-third the total leaf surface area should be removed at any onetime. k. Trees should be pruned to a shape typical of their species. I. To prevent sunburn on thin -barked trees, just enough limbs shall be removed to get the desired effect without admitting too much sun light to the trunk ofthe tree orthe top of large branches. The above damage may be minimized by doing work on susceptible species during the dormant season. m. When removing the lower branches of trees for crown elevation or underclearance, care should be taken to maintain a symmetrical appearance, and cuts should be taken to maintain a symmetrical appearance, and cuts should not be made so large or so numerous that they will prevent normal sap flow. 88 GLOSSARY OF TERMS FOR PRUNING Branch Collar - Trunk tissue that forms around the base of a branch between the main stem and the branch and a lateral. As a branch decreases in vigor or begins to die, the branch collar becomes more pronounced. Branch Bark Ridge - Raised area of bark in the branch crotch that marks where the branch wood and trunk wood meet. Callus - Undifferentiated tissue formed by the cambium layer around a wound. Cambium - Dividing layer of conductor cells in a tree trunk that forms sapwood (xylem) to the inside and bark (phloem) to the outside. Crown Thinning - The selective removal of branches to increase light penetration, air movement, and reduce weight. Espalier - Espalier pruning is a combination of cutting and training branches which are oriented in one plane, formally or, informally arranged and usually supported on a wall, fence or trellis. The patterns can be simple or complex but the cutting and training is precise. Ties should be replaced every few years to prevent girdling the branches at the attachment site. Girdling Roots - Roots located above or below the ground whose circular growth around the best of the trunk or over individual roots applies pressure to the bark area, ultimately restricting sap flow and trunk/root growth. Frequently resulting in reduced vitally and/or stability of the plant. Heading - Heading is cutting a currently growing or one -year -old shoot back to a bud, or cutting an older branch or stem back to a stub or lateral branch not. sufficiently large enough to assume the terminal role. Heading should rarely be used on mature trees. Lateral -A branch or twig growing from a parent branch or stem. Leader - A dominant upright stem, usually the main trunk. There can be several leaders in onetree. Mycelium - Growth mass of fungus tissues found under bark or rooted wood. 1 Bark Tracing - The trimming Of damaged bark will facilitate proper callus function and wood healing. Surgical procedures should only be undertaken by a qualified arborist. 89 Stub cuts Cutting branches several inches or feet from the parent limb or trunk does not allow for complete wound closure and can be an entry point for decay. Never leave a stub that a cap can hang from. 1.40. Pruning Paint Painting wounds can inhibit wound closure, allow decay.ond waste money; Only use wound dressing whena_n=oakor elm tree must be pruned during the growing season to reduce the,chance of disease: transmission. How to: Prun A few minutes spent pruning is one of the best things you can do for your tree. But what are the best tools to • accomplish your task and how can you avoid tearing or stripping bark from your tree? 1. Pole saw & topper head 2. Hand saws 3. Helmet & safety glasses 4, Hand pruner 5. Leather gloves 6, Long handled topper Tools Pruning equipment should be sharp and well maintained. Loppers and hand pruners should be of the bypass:oi scissors type to prevent crushed limbs. Saws should have triple edged teeth for quicker and cleaner:;,_ cuts. A hard hat, leather gloves and eye protection are recommended. :,- 3-Step Cut 'cfN( r°, Avoid tearing bark by using these three sequential cuts when pruning a limb you cannot support with one hand while cutting with the other. Torn bark often leads to decay. Step 1 At least 12 — 18" from the final cut, make an undercut approximately 1/3 of the way through the branch. Step 2 Outside the first cut, sawing from the top down, completely remove the branch. With the majority of the branch weight now gone, bark tearing should not occur. Step 3 Begin the final cut outside the branch bark ridge, continuing at a slightly outward angle, finishing just outside the branch collar. Remember it is not necessary or appropriate to paint pruning wounds. Branch Bark 2 Ridge 3 Branch Collar A properly pruned tree should look like nothing drastic has been done. Good pruning should not be determined by how many branches are on the ground, but rather by what remains in the tree. Final result Text by Don Kissinger, Tracy Salisbury, Urban Foresters, WDNR and Genny Fannucchi Forest Resource Education and Awareness Specialist, WDNR. Design by Linda Pohlad, Graphic Artist, WDNR. Photos 8ob Queen, Don Kissinger WDNR and Dr. A. 5higa. Slago & Trees Associates. Special thanks to Ann Wied and Sharon Morrlsey, UW-Cooperative Extension for their help with site selection and pruning. The Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources provides equal opportunity in its employment, programs, services, and functions under an Affirmative Action Plan. If you have any questions, please write to Equal Opportunity Office, Department of interior, Washington, D.C. 20240. This publication Is available in alternative format (large print, Braille, audio tape etc.) upon request. Please call 608/267-7494 for more Information. vns*Isi4 tOr.pfWWI FESOUiCE& PONIED ON RECYCLED PAPER PUB-FR-256 2003 Pruning is one of the most important maintenance tasks you can perform on your tree. If pruning is done correctly, you will enjoy a healthy, long- lived tree. Proper planning leads to successful pruning. Have a purpose before making any cut. Why prune? V Future Health - Young trees are pruned to establish good branch structure and spacing, a central trunk and proper trunk taper. Mature trees are pruned to remove dead and/or hazardous limbs. V Safety - Pruning trees on boulevards, street intersections and front yards assures that vision or sight lines of motorists, bikers and pedestrians are not compromised. The need for safety.pniriing can be reduced if, when,planting choose the right tree for the space provided. ✓ Aesthetics Pruning helps trees,beautify our 'environment and::-; ' becoe landscape mfocal points A well pruned tree is not only safer, but also looks better and ,increases property value. When to prune? The best time to prune any deciduous tree is when it is dormant, typically November - March in Wisconsin. The second best time is mid -summer, after leaf growth is complete. The worst time to do major pruning is in the spring, when tree buds and/or leaves are still growing and food reserves are low. Dead limbs may be removed any time of year. How much to prune? The amount to remove depends on the tree's size, species and age as well as your pruning objectives. Young trees can tolerate more branch removal than mature trees. Avoid removing more than 25% of the live branches no matter the tree's age, size or species. What to do... Before pruning get to know your tree. Take a step back and envision what you want it to look like in the future. If your tree is mature, its structure cannot be altered much. Limit the pruning of newly planted trees to dead, broken or torn branches or to establish only one central trunk if the tree has two or more. Structural pruning may begin the second or third year after planting and every N other year thereafter until about year 10. After that, pruning every 5 to 7 years should reduce any major structural problems. Remove crossing, competing, broken, dead, vertical, downward -growing or sucker branches each time you prune. Never cut back your tree's leader, the top -most growing point of the tree, it is vital to letting the tree develop its natural form. Avoid removing branches larger than 4" in diameter as the wound takes a long time to close. Strong U-5haped union Weak V-5haped union Encourage strong branch attachments. Prune to allow for and encourage U-shaped branch unions versus narrow V-shaped branch unions. V-shaped branch unions typically have included or in -rolled bark, indicating poor branch attachments that will fail over time. Pruning Safely Make safety your number one priority Do not prune trees near utility lines If you can remove a tree's limbs while standing' on the ground do so, but proceed carefully': Any major: -job on abig tree -Should be done by a; professional' certified arborist Branches to prune 1. Competing leader 2. Vertical 3. Crossing 4. Downward -growing _ 5. Broken or dead 6. 5uckers Figure I Always have a purpose in mind before making a cut. What not to do... Po not top trees This hideous, high maintenance, expensive practice stubs off large limbs regardless of their function and location within the tree. Topping subjects the tree to large open wounds that will not quickly or easily close. It allows insect, disease and decay damage to occur and drastically shortens the life of your tree. Many times homeowners top trees because they believe the tree is getting too large. Instead of making the tree smaller, topping stimulates the rapid growth of multiple, weakly attached branches. These branches quickly get as tall or taller than the tree was prior to priming, thus negating the reason for topping in the first place. People and tree care services that advocate topping are not knowledgeable of tree biology and should never be allowed to work on your trees. Flush cuts Making a finishing cut that removes the branch bark ridge and branch collar (see Fig. 2) creates a large wound and causes uneven and incomplete wound closure. Compare the results below of a flush cut (left) and proper cut (right). Figure 2 USDA Forest Service NA-FR-01-95 Northeastern Area State and Private Forestry HOW to Prune Trees Peter J. Bedker, Joseph G. O'Brien, and Manfred M. Mielke Illustrations by Julie Martinez, Afton, MN Introduction The objective of pruning is to produce strong, healthy, attractive plants. By understanding how, when and why to prune, and by following a few supple principles, this objective can be achieved. Why Prune The main reasons for pruning ornamental and shade trees include safety, health, and aesthetics. In addition, pruning can be used to stimulate fruit production and increase the value of timber. Pruning for safety (Fig. 1A) involves removing branches that could fall and cause injury or property damage, trimming -branches • that interfere with lines of sight on streets or driveways, and removing branches that grow into utility lines. Safety pruning can be largely avoided by carefully choosing species that will not grow beyond the space available to them, and have strength and form characteristics that are suited to the site. Pruning for health (Fig. 1B) involves removing diseased or insect -infested wood, thinning the crown to increase airflow and reduce some pest problems, and removing Figure 1. Reasons for pruning. crossing and rubbing branches. Pruning can best be used to encourage trees to develop a strong structure and reduce the likelihood of damage during severe weather. Removing broken or damaged limbs encourage wound closure. Pruning for aesthetics (Fig. 1C) involves enhancing the natural fonn and character of trees or stimulating flower production. Pruning for form can be especially important on open - grown trees that do very little self -pruning. All woody plants shed branches in response to shading and competition. Branches that do not produce enough carbohydrates from photosynthesis to sustain themselves die and are eventually shed; the resulting wounds are sealed by woundwood (callus). Branches that are poorly attached may be broken off by wind and accumulation of snow and ice. Branches removed by such natural forces often result in large, ragged wounds that rarely seal. Pruning as a cultural practice can be used to supplement or replace these natural processes and increase the strength and longevity of plants. Trees have many forms, but the most common types are pyramidal (excurrent) or spherical (decurrent). Trees with pyramidal crowns, e.g., most conifers, have a strong central stem and lateral branches that are more or less horizontal and do not compete with the central stem for dominance. Trees with spherical crowns,. e.g., most hardwoods, have many lateral branches that may compete for dominance. To reduce the need for pruning it is best to consider a tree's natural fonn. It is very difficult 2 to impose an unnatural form on a tree without a commitment to constant maintenance. Pollarding and topiary are extreme examples of pruning to create a desired, unnatural effect. Pollarding is the practice of pruning trees annually to remove all new growth. The following year, a profusion of new branches is produced at the ends of the branches. Topiary involves pruning trees and shrubs into geometric or animal shapes. Both pollarding and topiary are specialized applications that involve pruning to change the natural fonn of trees. As topiary demonstrates, given enough care and attention plants can be pruned into nearly any form. Yet just as proper pruning can enhance the form or character of plants, improper pruning can destroy it. Pruning Approaches Producing strong structure should be the emphasis when pruning young trees. As trees mature, the aim of pruning will shift to maintaining tree structure, form, health and appearance. Proper pruning cuts are made at a node, the point at which one branch or twig attaches to another. In the spring of the year growth begins at buds, and twigs grow until a new node is formed. The length of a branch between nodes is called an intemode. Figure .2. Crown thinning - branches to be removed are shaded in blue; pruning cuts should be made at the red lines. No more than one-fourth of the living branches should be removed at one time. The most common types of pruning are: 1. Crown Thinning (Fig. 2) Crown thinning, primarily for hardwoods, is the selective removal of branches to increase light penetration and air movement throughout the crown of a tree. The intent is to maintain or develop a tree's structure and form. To avoid unnecessary stress and prevent excessive production of epicormic sprouts, no more than one -quarter of the living crown should be removed at a time. If it is necessary to remove more, it should be done over successive years. 3 A. ,U-shaped strolag . 'V=hapred weak union union Figure 3. Types of branch unions. Branches with strong U-shaped angles of attachment should be retained (Fig 3A). Branches with narrow, V-shaped angles of attachment often form included bark and should be removed (Fig. 3B). Included bark forms when two branches grow at sharply acute angles to one another, producing a wedge of inward -rolled bark between them. Included bark prevents strong attachment of branches, often causing .a crack at the point below where the branches meet. Codoininant stems that are approximately the same size and arise from the same position often form included bark. Removing some of the lateral branches from a codominant stem can reduce its growth enough to allow the other stem to become dominant. Lateral branches should be no more than one- half to three-quarters of the diameter of the stem at the point of attachment. Avoid producing "lion's tails," tufts of branches and foliage at the ends of branches, caused by removing all inner lateral branches and foliage. Lion's tails can result in sunscalding, abundant epicormic sprouts, and weak branch structure and breakage. Branches that rub or cross retain 67%: arcoNn Prune Figure 4. Crown raising - branches to be removed are shaded in blue; pruning cuts should be made where indicated with red lines. The ratio of live crown to total tree height should be at least two-thirds. another branch should be removed. Conifers that have branches in whorls and pyramidal crowns rarely need crown thinning except to restore a dominant leader. Occasionally, the leader of a tree may be damaged and multiple branches may become codominant. Select the strongest leader and remove competing branches to prevent the development of codominant stems. 4 2. Crown Raising (Fig. 4) Crown raising is the practice of removing branches from the bottom of the crown of a tree to provide clearance for pedestrians, vehicles, buildings, lines of site, or to develop a clear stem for timber production. Also, removing lower branches on white pines can prevent blister rust. For street trees the minimum clearance is often specified by municipal ordinance. After pruning, the ratio of the living crown to total tree height should be at least two-thirds (e.g., a 12 m tree should have living branches on at least the upper 8 m). On young trees "temporary" branches may be retained along the stem to encourage taper and protect trees from vandalism and sun scald. Less vigorous shoots should be selected as temporary branches and should be about 10 to 15 cm apart along the stem. They should be pruned annually to slow their growth and should be removed eventually. 3. Crown Reduction (Fig. 5) Crown reduction pruning is most often used when a tree has grown too large for its permitted space. This method, sometimes called drop crotch pruning, is preferred to topping because it results in a more natural appearance, increases the time before pruning is needed again, and minimizes stress (see drop crotch cuts in the next section). Crown reduction pruning, a method of last resort, often results in large pruning wounds to stems that may lead to decay. This method should never be used on a tree with a pyramidal growth fonn. A better long term solution is to remove the tree and replace it Figure 5. Crown reduction - branches to be removed are shaded in blue; pruning cuts should be made where indicated with red lines. To prevent branch dieback, cuts should be made at lateral branches that are at least one-third the diameter of the stem at their union. with a tree that will not grow beyond the available space. Pruning Cuts Pruning cuts should be made so that only branch tissue is removed and stem tissue is not damaged. At the point where the branch attaches to the stem, branch and stem tissues remain separate, but are contiguous. If only branch tissues are cut when pruning, the stem tissues of the tree will probably not become decayed, and the wound will seal more effectively. 5 1. Pruning living branches (Fig. 6) To fmd the proper place to cut a branch, look for the branch collar that grows from the stem tissue at the underside of the base of the branch (Fig. 6A). On the upper surface, there is usually a branch bark ridge that runs (more or less) parallel to the branch angle, along the stem of the tree. A proper pruning cut does not damage either the branch bark ridge or the branch collar. A proper cut begins just outside the branch bark ridge and angles down away from the stem of the tree, avoiding injury to the branch collar (Fig. 6B). Make the cut as close as possible to the stem in the branch axil, but outside the branch bark ridge, so that stem tissue is not injured and the wound can seal in the shortest time possible. If the cut is too far from the stem, leaving a branch stub, the branch tissue usually dies and woundwood forms from the stem tissue. Wound closure is delayed because the woundwood must seal over the stub that was left. The quality of pruning cuts can be evaluated by examining pruning wounds after one growing season. A concentric ring of woundwood will • form from proper pruning cuts (Fig. 6B). Flush cuts made inside the branch bark ridge or branch collar, result in pronounced development of woundwood on the sides of the pruning wounds with very little woundwood forming on the top or bottom (Fig. 7D). As described above, stub cuts result in the death of the remaining branch and woundwood forms around the base from stem tissues. When pruning small branches with hand pruners, make sure the tools are sharp enough B Cut inq a srnali brrtLch.: to final t(n[I a carper Figure 6. Pruning cuts to cut the branches cleanly without tearing. Branches large enough to require saws should be supported with one hand while the cuts are made. If the branch is too large to support, make a three -step pruning cut to prevent bark ripping (Fig. 6C): 1. The first cut is a shallow notch made on the underside of the branch, outside the 6 branch collar. This cut will prevent a falling branch from tearing the stem tissue as it pulls away from the tree. 2. The second cut should be outside the first cut, all the way through the branch, leaving a short stub. 3. The stub is then cut just outside the branch bark ridge/branch collar, completing the operation. 2. Pruning dead branches (Fig. 6) Prune dead branches in much the same way as live branches. Making the correct cut is usually easy because the branch collar and the branch bark ridge, can be distinguished from the dead branch, because they continue to grow (Fig. 6A). Make the pruning cut just outside of the ring of woundwood tissue that has formed, being careful not to cause unnecessary injury (Fig. 6C). Large dead branches should be supported with one hand or cut with the three - step method, just as live branches. Cutting large living branches with the three step method is more critical because of the greater likelihood of bark ripping. 3. Drop Crotch Cuts (Fig. 6D) A proper cut begins just above the branch bark ridge and extends through the stem parallel to the branch bark ridge. Usually, the stem being removed is too large to be supported with one hand, so the three cut method should be used. 1. With the first cut, make a notch on the side of the stem away from the branch to be retained, well above the branch crotch. 2. Begin the second cut inside the branch crotch, staying well above the branch bark ridge, and cut through the stem above the notch. 3. Cut the remaining stub just inside the branch bark ridge through the stem parallel to the branch bark ridge. To prevent the abundant growth of epicormic sprouts on the stem below the cut, or dieback of the stem to a lower lateral branch, make the cut at a lateral branch that is at least one-third of the diameter of the stem at their union. Pruning Practices That Harm Trees Topping and tipping (Fig. 7A, 7B) are pruning practices that hann trees and should not be used. Crown reduction pruning is the preferred method to reduce the size or height of the crown of a tree, but is rarely needed and should be used infrequently. Topping, the pruning of large upright branches between nodes, is sometimes done to reduce the height of a tree (Fig. 7A). Tipping is a practice of cutting lateral branches between nodes (Fig. 7B) to reduce crown width. These practices invariably result in the development of epicormic sprouts, or in the death of the cut branch back to the next lateral branch below. These epicormic sprouts are wealdy attached to the stem and eventually will be supported by a decaying branch. Improper pruning cuts cause unnecessary injury and bark ripping (Fig. 7C). Flush cuts injure 7 A. Topping ',tit. Tippling ling stem tissues and can result in decay (Fig. 7D). Stub cuts delay wound closure and can provide entry to canker fungi that kill the cambium, delaying or preventing woundwood formation (Fig. 7E). When to Prune Conifers may be pruned any time of year, but pruning during the dormant season may minimize sap and resin flow from cut branches. Hardwood trees and shrubs without showy flowers: prune in the dormant season to easily visualize the structure of the tree, to maximize wound closure in the growing season after pruning, to reduce the chance of transmitting disease, and to discourage excessive sap flow from wounds. Recent wounds and the chemical scents they emit can actually attract insects that spread tree disease. In particular, wounded ehn wood is known to attract bark beetles that harbor spores of the Dutch elm disease fungus, and open wounds on oaks are known to attract beetles that spread the oak wilt fungus. Take care to prune these trees during the correct time of year to prevent spread of these fatal diseases. Contact your local tree disease specialist to find out when to prune these tree species in your area. Usually, the best time is during the late fall and winter. Flowering trees and shrubs: these should also be pruned during the dormant season for the same reasons stated above; however, to preserve the current year's flower crop, prune according to the following schedule: • Trees and shrubs that flower in early spring (redbud, dogwood, etc.) should be pruned immediately after flowering (flower buds arise the year before they flush, and will form on the new growth). • Many flowering trees are susceptible to fireblight, a bacterial disease that can be spread by pruning. These trees, 8 including many varieties of crabapple, hawthorn, pear, mountain ash, flowering quince and pyracantha, should be pruned during the dormant season. Check with your county extension agent or a horticulturist for additional information. • Trees and shrubs that flower in the summer or fall always should be pruned during the dormant season (flower buds will form on new twigs during the next growing season, and the flowers will flush normally). Dead branches: can be removed any time of the year. Pruning Tools Proper tools are essential for satisfactory pruning (Fig.6). The choice of which tool to use depends largely on the size of branches to be pruned and the amount of pruning to be done. If possible, test a tool before you buy it to ensure it suits your specific needs. As with most things, higher quality often equates to higher cost. Generally speaking, the smaller a branch is when pruned, the sooner the wound created . will seal. Hand pruners are used to prune small branches (under 2.5 cm diameter) and many different kinds are available. Hand pruners can be grouped into by-pass or anvil styles based on the blade configuration. Anvil style pruners have a straight blade that cuts the branch against a small anvil or block as the handles are squeezed. By-pass pruners use a curved cutting blade that slides past a broader lower blade, much like a scissors. To prevent unnecessary tearing or crushing of tissues, it is best to use a by-pass style pruner. Left- or right-handed types can be purchased. Slightly larger branches that cannot be cut with a hand pruner may be cut with small pruning saws (up to 10 cm) or lopping shears (up to 7 cm diameter) with larger cutting surfaces and greater leverage. Lopping shears are also available in by-pass and anvil styles. For branches too large to be cut with a hand pruner or lopping shears, pruning saws must be used. Pruning saws differ greatly in handle styles, the length and shape of the blade, and the layout and type of teeth. Most have tempered metal blades that retain their sharpness for many pruning cuts. Unlike most other saws, pruning saws are often designed to cut on the "pull -stroke." Chain saws are preferred when pruning branches larger than about 10 cm. Chainsaws should be used only by qualified individuals. To avoid the need to cut branches greater than 10 cm diameter, prune when branches are small. Pole pruners must be used to cut branches beyond reach. Generally, pruning heads can cut branches up to 4.4 cm diameter and are available in the by-pass and anvil styles. Once again, the by-pass type is preferred. For cutting larger branches, saw blades can be fastened directly to the pruning head, or a separate saw head can be purchased. Because of the danger of electrocution, pole pruners should not be used near utility lines except by qualified utility line clearance personnel. To ensure that satisfactory cuts are made and to reduce fatigue, keep your pruning tools sharp and in good working condition. Hand pruners, 9 lopping shears, and pole pruners should be periodically sharpened with a sharpening stone. Replacement blades are available for many styles. Pruning saws should be professionally sharpened or periodically replaced. To reduce cost, many styles have replaceable blades. Tools should be clean and sanitized as well as sharp. Although sanitizing tools may be inconvenient and seldom practiced, doing so may prevent the spread of disease from infected to healthy trees on contaminated tools. Tools become contaminated when they come into contact with fungi, bacteria, viruses and other microorganisms that cause disease in trees. Most pathogens need some way of entering the tree to cause disease, and fresh wounds are perfect places for infections to begin. Microorganisms on tool surfaces are easily introduced into susceptible trees when subsequent cuts are made. The need for sanitizing tools can be greatly reduced by pruning during the dormant season. If sanitizing is necessary it should be practiced as follows: Before each branch is cut, sanitize pruning tools with either 70% denatured alcohol, or with liquid household bleach diluted 1 to 9 with water (1 part bleach, 9 parts water). Tools should be inunersed in the solution, preferably for 1-2 minutes, and wood particles should be wiped from all cutting surfaces. Bleach is corrosive to metal surfaces, so tools should be thoroughly cleaned with soap and water after each use. Treating wounds Tree sap, gums, and resins are the natural means by which trees combat invasion by pathogens. Although unsightly, sap flow from pruning wounds is not generally harmful; however, excessive "bleeding" can weaken trees. When oaks or ehns are wounded during a critical time of year (usually spring for oaks, or throughout the growing season for ehns) -- either from storms, other unforeseen mechanical wounds, or from necessary branch removals -- some type of wound dressing should be applied to the wound. Do this immediately after the wound is created. In most other instances, wound dressings are unnecessary, and may even be detrimental. Wound dressings will not stop decay or cure infectious diseases. They may actually interfere with the protective benefits of tree gums and resins, and prevent wound surfaces from closing as quickly as they might under natural conditions. The only benefit of wound dressings is to prevent introduction of pathogens in the specific cases of Dutch elm disease and oak wilt. Pruning Guidelines To encourage the development of a strong, healthy tree, consider the following guidelines when pruning. 10 General • Prune first for safety, next for health, and finally for aesthetics. • Never prune trees that are touching or near utility lines; instead consult your local utility company. • Avoid pruning trees when you might increase susceptibility to important pests (e.g. in areas where oak wilt exists, avoid pruning oaks in the spring and early summer; prune trees susceptible to fireblight only during the dormant season). • Use the following decision guide for size of branches to be removed: 1) under 5 cm diameter - go ahead, 2) between 5 and 10 cm diameter - think twice, and 3) greater than 10 cm diameter - have a good reason. Crown Thinning • Assess how a tree will be pruned from the top down. • Favor branches with strong, U-shaped angles of attachment. Remove branches with weak, V-shaped angles of attachment and/or included bark. Ideally, lateral branches should be evenly spaced on the main stem of young trees. • Remove any branches that rub or cross another branch. • Make sure that lateral branches are no more than one-half to three-quarters of the diameter of the stem to discourage • the development of co -dominant stems. ,r • Do not remove more than one -quarter of the living crown of a tree at one time. If it is necessary to remove more, do it over successive years. Crown Raising • Always maintain live branches on at least two-thirds of a tree's total height. Removing too many lower branches will hinder the development of a strong stem. • Remove basal sprouts and vigorous epicormic sprouts. Crown Reduction • Use crown reduction pruning only when absolutely necessary. Make the pruning cut at a lateral branch that is at least one-third the diameter of the stem to be removed. • If it is necessary to remove more than half of the foliage from a branch, remove the entire branch. Glossary Branch Axil: the angle formed where a branch joins another branch or stem of a woody plant. Branch Bark Ridge: a ridge of bark that forms in a branch crotch and partially around the stem resulting from the growth of the stem and branch tissues against one another. Branch Collar: a "shoulder" or bulge formed at the base of a branch by the annual production of overlapping layers of branch and stem tissues. Crown Raising: a method of pruning to 11 provide clearance for pedestrians, vehicles, buildings, lines of sight, and vistas by removing lower branches. Crown Reduction Pruning: a method of pruning used to reduce the height of a tree. Branches are cut back to laterals that are at least one-third the diameter of the limb being removed. Crown Thinning: a method of pruning to increase light penetration and air movement through the crown of a tree by selective removal of branches. Callus: see woundwood. Decurrent: a major tree form resulting from weak apical control. Trees with this forum have several to many lateral branches that compete with the central stem for dominance resulting in a spherical or globose crown. Most hardwood trees have decurrent forms. Epicormic Sprout: a shoot that arises from latent or adventitious buds; also know as water sprouts that occur for on stems and branches and suckers that are produced from the base of trees. In older wood, epicormic shoots often result from severe defoliation or radical pruning. Excurrent: a major tree form resulting from strong apical control. Trees with this fonn have a strong central stem and pyramidal shape. Lateral branches rarely compete for dominance. Most conifers and a few hardwoods, such as sweetgum and tuliptree, have excurrent forms. Flush Cuts: pruning cuts that originate inside the branch bark ridge or the branch collar, causing unnecessary injury to stem tissues. Included Bark: bark enclosed between branches with narrow angles of attachment, forming a wedge between the branches. Pollarding: the annual removal of all of the previous year's growth, resulting in a flush of slender shoots and branches each spring. Stub Cuts: pruning cuts made too far outside the branch bark ridge or branch collar, that leave branch tissue attached to the stem. Tipping: a poor maintenance practice used to control the size of tree crowns; involves the cutting of branches at right angles leaving long stubs. Topping: a poor maintenance practice often used to control the size of trees; involves the indiscriminate cutting of branches and stems at right angles leaving long stubs. Synonyms include rounding -over, heading -back, dehoming, capping and hat -racking. Topping is often improperly referred to as pollarding. Topiary: the pruning and training of a plant into a desired geometric or animal shape. Woundwood: lignified, differentiated tissues produced on woody plants as a response to wounding (also known as callus tissue). References ANSI Z133.1. 1994. Safety standards. American national standard for tree care operators. Washington, DC: American National Standards Institute. ANSI A300. 1995. Standard practices for tree, shrub, and other woody plant maintenance. Washington, DC: American National Standards Institute. 12 Fazio, J. R. ed. 1992. Don't top trees. Tree City USA Bulletin No. 8. Nebraska City, NE: The National Arbor Day Foundation. Harris, R.W. 1994. Clarifying certain pruning terminology: thinning, heading, pollarding. Journal of Arboriculture 20:50-54. ISA Performance Guidelines Committee. 1994. Tree pruning guidelines. Savoy, IL: International Society of Arboriculture; Ryan, H.D.P. III. 1994. Arboricultural pruning methodologies. Arborist News Volume 3(4):33-38. Shigo, A. 1991. Modem arboriculture. Durham, NH: Shigo & Trees, Associates. Shigo, A. 1989. Tree pruning: a worldwide photo guide. Durham, NH: Shigo & Trees, Associates. "How to Prune Trees" was written to help people properly prune the trees they care about. If you doubt your ability to safely prune large trees, please hire a professional arborist. Infonnation in this publication can be used to interview and hire a competent arborist. u When planting, please consider where the tree will be located in relation to overhead and underground utility lines. (The location of these lines should determine the kind of tree to plant and site selection.) The mature tree must have enough space away from power lines and in an area large enough to accommodate the canopy and root system. Planting tall growing trees under or near power lines will ultimately require pruning to maintain safe clearance from the wires. Trees toppling into overhead power lines can become a public safety hazard and disrupt your electric service. Therefore it is best not to plant tall growing trees under or near power lines. You should not attempt to trim any vegetation growing near or on any overhead power lines. Only specially trained line clearing professionals should work around power lines. Always Consider the Ultimate Mature Size when Planting Large Trees 30' minimum setback Medium Trees ti 20' minimum setback Large Palms maximum palm el `F-1►' frond length ll plus '.' 3 feet l' Small trees and shrubs may be planted adjanl;opower lines`• Trees Shown at Mature Height Recommended ;Trees®r ®u Mora® These trees would be suitable forplanting adjacent to overhead distribution powerlines Geiger Tree (Cordia sebestena) This slow growing tree has striking orange blossoms in the spring. Whether multi - stemmed or with a single trunk, this tree works well as a specimen or patio tree. Growth Rate: Slow Maturity Height x Spread: 15-20' x 20' Foliage: Evergreen Silver Buttonwood (Conocarpus erectus var. sericeus) Silver to blue-green foliage provides accent as a small tree or buffer. Multi -stemmed, tough tree adapts well to urban areas. Growth Rate: Moderate Maturity Height x Spread: 15-20' x 20'-30' Foliage: Evergreen www. Spanish Stopper (Eugenia spp.) Narrow canopy and the ability to grow in limited soil space makes this tree ideal for parking lot islands and small landscapes. Drought -tolerant once established. Growth Rate: Slow to moderate Maturity Height x Spread: 15.20' x 15' Foliage: Evergreen Glaucous Cassia (Cassia surattensis) Beautiful yellow flowers on an outstanding small tree. Prune to maintain tree form. Ideal for small landscapes as an accent tree. Growth Rate: Moderate Maturity Height x Spread: 15-20' x 15-20' Foliage: Evergreen corn trees Large Trees Need Their Space So That They Do Not interfere With Power Lines Here% a list of some canopy trees often seen in South Florida. These large, canopy trees need their space. If you plant a canopy tree on your property please follow these guidelines: stigkigiar nossrt, 00z0s... g.,s5 53TA.10,, Bald Cypress Brazilian Beautyleaf Green Buttonwood Gumbo Limbo Jacaranda Live Oak Mahogany Paradise Tree Pigeon Plum Pink Trumpet Tree Royal Poinciana Satinleaf South Florida Slash Pine Wild Tamarind 60-80' x 25-30' 30-45' x 30-50' 30-40' x 20-30' 25-40' x 35-50' 35-40' x 45-60' 60-80' x 60 plus feet 50' x 50' 30-50' x 30' 20-40' x 20-30' 25-35' x 15-25' 25-40' x 50 plus feet 25-40' x 25' 35-50' x 30-40' 40-601x 45' 30' Upright & narrow 30' Spreading canopy 30' Spreading vase 30' Spreading canopy 30' Spreading canopy 30' Spreading canopy 30' Rounded canopy 30' Upright & rounded 20' Upright & rounded 20' Upright oval 30' Rounded & spreading 30' Upright vase shaped 30' Upright & slightly spreading 30' Weeping spreading Upright & Narrow Spreading Canopy Upright & Spreading Thanks to the Florida Urban Forestry Council For providing information For this publication. Visit the Florida Urban Forestry Council web site et www.FuFc.org. :Electric liries'usually are: located atthe„topof ::the 'pole, farthestirdm': 1. „the ,6roupd. Cable. TV • — and-telephonelitieS rur closer to the ground,' below poWerlineS. Visit www.FPLoc mitrees for a list of FPL qualified tree contractors who can help you maintain your trees and keep them dear of power lines. Find out about many other energy topics by visiting www.FPLeom. MSC56-0605